The pain in my right ear was excruciating. Another foot deeper and I was certain my eardrum would rupture. I shook my head and flipped upright, gave a single kick and felt myself rise, slowly at first ...

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In Bunaken, freediving is not about pushing limits. It is about slowing down, relaxing, and discovering how natural the ocean can feel.

The Atlantic Ocean is a turquoise blanket unfurled to the horizon beyond the white sand beach of the Grace Bay Club, a luxury resort in Turks and Caicos. My husband, Adrian, and I haven’t traveled as ...