How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot
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Release of a Black Diamond, ATC Guide auto-blocking belay device under full bodyweight.
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Release of a Black Diamond, ATC Guide auto-blocking belay device under full bodyweight.
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YouTubeEli Helmuth
0:12
When using an auto-blocking belay device like the ATC Guide, knowing how to release it under load is critical. There are many ways to accomplish this, but here is our favorite! 🚨Notice the redirected brake strand and the friction hitch backup for lowering. What friction hitch are we using to back-up the lower? Black Diamond | American Mountain Guides Association
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FacebookAmerican Mountain Guides Association
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Exactly how strong is an ATC? We pulled on a Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC Guide, and a Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide to find out. ✨The rope broke at about 10 kN. This is a pretty normal force for a rope going through a device with tight bends like an ATC. ✨The wire broke much higher than we thought it would at 6-7 kN! Does that mean you could use it as a bodyweight aid placement? ✨The eye of the Reverso broke at 12.41 kN. The ATC Guides both broke close to 30 kN. We thought this could have
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FacebookHow NOT 2
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How to Set Up an ATC Belay Device - Beginner Rock Climbing Tutorial #3 #rockclimbingtutorial
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